What to wear to a wedding: every dress code, decoded

Opening an invitation and finding "black tie optional" or "dressy casual" is the moment most guests start searching for what to wear to a wedding. The dress code is the couple's way of telling you how formal the day will be, and once you can read it, getting dressed gets a lot easier. This guide decodes the US dress codes, for women and men, with a table, a list of what to skip and tips for each season.

In short

• The dress code is a hint about formality, time of day and venue. Read the invitation and the wedding website first.
• Evening usually means more formal; daytime and outdoor weddings lean lighter.
• Skip white, ivory and champagne, and anything that competes with the couple.
• Check the forecast and the venue floor before you pick shoes.

The dress codes, from most to least formal

Wedding sites and guides describe the same ladder with small differences. The summaries below follow guides from Joy and Allure Bridals.

White tie

The most formal code, and rare. It is an evening-only dress code. Women wear a floor-length ball gown, often with gloves. Men wear a black tailcoat, a white wing-collar shirt and a white bow tie. If you receive a white tie invitation, plan ahead.

Black tie

Women wear a floor-length gown or an elegant cocktail dress with heels and statement jewelry. Men wear a black tuxedo, a white dress shirt and a black bow tie with polished formal shoes. An ordinary dark suit is not the right answer here.

Black tie optional

This is the code that confuses people most. Joy's guide describes it as a floor-length gown or a dressy cocktail dress for women, and a tuxedo or a dark formal suit in navy, charcoal or black for men. The flexibility is for guests who do not own formal wear: a dark suit and tie is a safe answer.

Formal

One step below black tie optional. Women wear a floor-length or midi dress in a polished fabric, or a dressy pantsuit. Men wear a dark suit, a dress shirt and a tie, and a pocket square adds polish.

Cocktail

The classic wedding guest code. Women wear a knee-length or midi dress or a dressy jumpsuit. Men wear a dark suit or a well-fitted blazer with dress trousers. A floor-length gown can read as overdressed here.

Semi-formal

Close to cocktail, with a little more room. Women can wear a midi or knee-length dress or dressy separates. Men wear a suit or a blazer with dress trousers, with or without a tie.

Dressy casual

Intentional and polished, but relaxed. Women wear a sundress, a wrap dress, a midi skirt with a nice top or a jumpsuit. Men wear a blazer or sport coat with chinos and a button-down shirt. Jeans, t-shirts and athletic wear stay at home.

Casual

Usually a daytime or backyard wedding. Women wear a sundress, a cotton maxi or a skirt and top. Men wear a button-down or polo with chinos. Even here, skip distressed denim, flip-flops and graphic tees.

Beach or resort

Women wear a flowy maxi or an airy midi in a lightweight fabric, with wedges or flat sandals. Men wear linen trousers or chinos with a linen shirt in a light color. Stilettos sink in sand, so leave them behind.

Dress codes at a glance

What never to wear

• White, ivory or champagne. Allure Bridals advises steering clear of white or anything too close to it, unless the couple says otherwise, to avoid upstaging the bride.
• An outfit that outshines the couple. Save the sequins and the very high slit for another night.
• Anything below the invitation's dress code. Under-dressing can read as a lack of effort. Over-dressing by one notch is easier to carry.
• Shoes you cannot walk or stand in. Grass, sand and cobblestones all have opinions about heels.
• Casual basics at dressy events. Jeans, t-shirts and athletic wear belong to casual weddings only, and even then the invitation decides.
• A theme or palette you were not given. If the couple asked for a color or a theme, follow it. If they did not, a classic neutral or a jewel tone is never wrong.

Dress for the season and the venue

The same code looks different in July and in January. Allure Bridals suggests checking the location and the forecast, especially for footwear and outerwear.

• Spring and summer. Lighter colors, breathable fabrics such as linen and cotton, and lighter suits. For outdoor ceremonies, bring a wrap for the evening.
• Fall and winter. Darker colors and heavier fabrics such as velvet and wool. Pack a coat or a wrap that goes with the outfit, since you will take it off and on all night.
• Outdoor and garden weddings. Block heels or wedges instead of stilettos.
• Beach weddings. Flat sandals or wedges, a fabric that does not wrinkle, and sunglasses. A light layer helps when the wind picks up at sunset.
• Destination weddings. Plan the outfits before you pack. Our honeymoon packing list shows how to pack by category for a trip with a lot of occasions.

What to wear to the rehearsal dinner

The rehearsal dinner is usually a step less formal than the wedding. WeddingWire suggests checking the invitation first, then the time and the venue: an evening dinner at a country club calls for more than a backyard supper. The guide notes that the rehearsal dinner is less formal than the wedding, so a black-tie wedding calls for something semi-formal at the dinner.

• Women: a midi dress, a dressy jumpsuit or a skirt with a polished top.
• Men: dress trousers with a button-down shirt, and a blazer or tie if the setting is dressier.
• Colors: avoid white, and the shades of the wedding palette.
• Season: lightweight fabrics and pastels in spring and summer, and richer tones in fall and winter.

A simple way to decide

1. Find the dress code and the time of day on the invitation or the wedding website.
2. Check the venue and the forecast.
3. Choose the outfit, then the shoes, then the layer.
4. Try everything on a few days before, so there is time to fix a hem or swap an accessory.

Most guests already own more wedding-ready pieces than they remember: a midi dress from last summer, a blazer, a good pair of loafers. The hard part is seeing them all in one place.